Some places are so woven into the story of civilization that you feel as though you already know them. Then you step through the gate and realize you’ve only read the footnotes.
The History
Babylon sits on the Euphrates about 85 kilometers south of Baghdad, near the modern city of Hillah. It was first mentioned on a clay tablet from the 23rd century B.C., and it grew into one of the great cities of Mesopotamia. Hammurabi ruled here and left behind one of the world’s earliest law codes. Later, Nebuchadnezzar II made it the dazzling capital of the Neo-Babylonian Empire, remembered for its massive walls, its processional way, and the legendary Hanging Gardens. Archaeologists have found no conclusive evidence that those gardens existed, but the myth endures.
The site’s modern chapter is complicated. Saddam Hussein built a replica palace here and reconstructed parts of the ruins, and the area suffered further damage during the Iraq War. The Ishtar Gate that visitors see is a reconstruction. The original blue-glazed bricks are in the Pergamon Museum in Berlin.
Opening the Gates
Iraq has worked for years to make Babylon a destination again. After lobbying since 1983, the country won UNESCO World Heritage status in July 2019. The designation put the spotlight back on the 10-square-kilometer site, and restoration has followed. The World Monuments Fund has helped with the Ishtar Gate, including groundwater damage, and has trained local experts in traditional mud brick restoration.
Encouragingly, the numbers of people visiting has shown progress. In 2024, according to local antiquities officials, about 49,600 people visited, including roughly 5,400 foreigners. Visitors today find a ticket office, restrooms, a small museum, and the Lion of Babylon statue. Challenges remain, and the site still faces preservation risks. But the direction is clear, and Iraq is making a real effort to welcome the world.
A Privileged Visit
For me, Babylon was a work trip. I was in the area for business at the Babil Conference Center located on the banks of the Euphrates River, which is now the Babylon Resort Restaurant. Between meetings, I was requested to tour the ruins to offer some thoughts regarding possible improvements to the site’s infrastructure.
Standing among walls that have survived millennia, I felt a sense of awe that’s hard to put into words. Looking out over the ruins was an experience that few in recent history have had the opportunity to take advantage of.
To acknowledge being in the midst of what was purported to be the site of one of the world’s seven wonders? A privilege and rare opportunity, one I’ll never forget.
Practical Tips
- Check the current situation. Given the location, this is important. Verify travel advisories and conditions before planning any trip to Iraq. Situational awareness is integral whenever you are Traveling to Another County.
- Go with a local guide. The history is layered, and a guide can have a big impact.
- Allow time. Most visitors spend one to two hours, but history lovers will want longer.
- Dress for the heat. For real, it can be stifling hot. Bring water, sun protection, and sturdy shoes.
Journey Moore Often, because history can sometimes be better understood when you stand in the midst of it.